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Free Stuff For Monitor WB/WC Collectors

It's Here...And It's FREE!
For all those restoring vintage Monitor WB & WC mills we've created a special page for you with plenty of free information and downloads. Now you you can download complete copies of vintage Monitor W Series Installation, Operating & Maintenance Instructions, a Monitor Tower Assembly Diagram, plus an outstanding Exploded Parts Diagram & parts list ALL FOR FREE. These are simple PDF downloads that will print nice quality copies of the information you need to start and finish your project.
We have also provided master craftsman insight on rebuilding  and repairing your W Series Mill, as written by the ageless Baker Mfg. Co. veteran Don Mathews. We've even included some great Maintenance & Trouble Shooting tips. Just scroll down to find the information you need. Its yours for the taking!
This page has been created for the educational benefit of our website users.

     If the FREE pdf downloads here don't satisfy your needs see our website   
      for hundreds of pages of additional Baker Monitor literature as well as reference
                     material on many other windmill & pump manufacturers.

Installation & Assembly


Click here to download

                WB & WC 
       Parts Diagram & List


Click here to download

   Tower Assembly


Click here to download

Monitor W Series Parts Replacement & Rebuilding Tips, by Don Mathews, October-1990
The simple design of W Series Monitor mills makes replacement of most parts an obvious procedure. Secure a parts list & diagram, like that offered by Windmill-Parts.Com above, and follow my step by step tips. Simply reverse the noted removal procedure for reinstallation.


1. To Replace #8 Crank Gear and/or #53 Pitman, #51 Shaft;
     a) Drive #52 pin out, remove screws from oil ring assembly. Remove
         #7 guide from #53 pitman after unscrewing bolts from #16 rod eye
         and letting #54 piston drop down. Remove #46 oil trough.
     b) Remove pipe plug from front of case. Loosen shaft set screw at
         rear of case and drive #51 shaft out far enough to clear gear.
         Push it all the way out if #51 shaft is to be replaced.
     c) When replacing only #53 a different hole in the gear may be used.
         This will not change the stroke length but will transfer gear wear
         to a new group of teeth.
     d) Pitman goes on flat face of gear.
     e) Shaft must be flush with flat face of gear.
     f) Clean oil holes in #7 guide.


2. To Replace # 6 / 6 1/2 Shaft Bushings and/or #9 Pinion, #10 Hub w/ Shaft;
    a) Unbolt #68 wheel spokes and remove from #10 hub.
    b) Complete steps 1a & 1b as noted above.
    c) Pull cotter pin from behind #9 pinion noting position
        of thrust washers. 
     d) Pull hub w/shaft through pinion. Pinion is slip fit on
        shaft with special Woodruff key. It may require some
        jarring. Bushings at front and rear of shaft are now
        exposed. Replace #97 key if worn. Be sure to clean oil
        passage under front bushing.


3. To Replace Brake Assembly;
    a) Pull cotter pin from rear of #56 brake rod and slide it   
        off its rails. When installed rod end should be flush
        with face of square nut or further depending on desired
        braking pressure.



4. To Replace #85 Chain Assembly;
    a) Unhook #82 spring from vane stem noting spring hole
        location on stem.
    b) Remove chain from #80 upper chain end.
    c) Remove #78 chain end from #18 swivel.
    d) Remove #78 from chain and pull chain up and out
        through sheaves.
    e) To replace feed a flexible wire through sheaves hooking
        chain and pulling back through sheaves. Use 7th link
        from upper end of chain as #82 spring mounting
Windmill-Parts.coms has new #82 Springs as low as $22 which is 50% off other Monitor Dealer list pricing.


5. To Replace Turntable Balls;
    a) Remove bolt from #22 lower rod guide and drop guide
        from pipe.
    b) Raise head and #5A race casting high enough to
        replace balls. It is not recommended to use the old style
        spacers instead increasing the number of balls. This
        provides a more even distribution of weight, reducing
    c) Pack new balls with marine grade axle grease.
    d) When letting #5A & head back down be sure that notch
        on bottom of case engages correct #5A boss for proper
        chain travel. Lower sheave must be above chain
        opening in #5A.
    e) After replacing #22 guide in pipe adjust #2A tower
        casting to 1/16" above flange on guide. Grease area. sells replacement race full ball sets starting at $10 representing
              savings of more than 50% OFF published Dealer List pricing.
     f) For early mills with turntable cup at bottom of mast,
        procedure is conceptually the same. See Assembly
        Guide PDF download above for details.


6. To Replace #54 Piston Rod;
    a) Remove #17 casting and locknut from rod. Take #21
        cover off and unbolt #54 1/2 plate fron #16 swivel eye.
    b) Remove #16 eye from #7 guide and pull rod up and out
        of case.
    c) Grease head of rod before bolting plate to eye.
    d) Be sure lock washer is used on head of each bolt.
7. To Replace Swivel Assembly #18, 19A & #79 Bail;
    a) Remove pull wire from #79 bail.
    b) Loosen both nuts on #19A outer swivel. Disassemble   
        and remove bail.
    c) Pull cotter pin and remove #78 chain end to replace #18
        inner swivel.
    d) Grease area.

Annual Maintenance
1. Change your oil refilling only to the level of the oil fill
    hole on the rear of the case.   A WB uses 1.5 quarts and a
    WC uses 2 quarts.
    Use only special Windmill Oil as sold by for $4.49 per qt.
2. Lubricate all hinges, pins, latches, sheaves and chain with
    a light weight oil that will maintain its viscosity in cold
3. Grease mast pipe and turntable balls with marine grade
    axle grease.
4. Check all wheel & tower bolts for loosening.
5. Inspect all moving parts for excessive wear.

Trouble Shooting Guide
1. Mill does not go out of wind when pull wire is released;
    a) Check #82 spring to make sure it has not broken,
        become disconnected or lost its tension.
    b) Check all joints for binding, lubricating if neccassary.
    c) Increase #82 spring tension by extending the spring
        to the next hole in the vane stem.
2. Mill does not go into the wind when furl lever is pulled 
    a) Check pull wire to insure it has not stretched or
    b) Make sure pull-in lever has not moved upward on
        tower leg.
    c) Verify chain, swivel or bail are not broken or damaged.
3. Wheel turns when mill is out of the wind;
    a) Brake casting may be worn or broken.
    b) Wheel hub brake surface may be worn or grooved.
    c) Brake rod may be loose or broken. May need tension
    d) Check brake & hub surfaces for oil or grease.
4. Oil leakage at front of shaft snoot;
    a) Oil level is too high. See maintenace item above.
    b) Oil return passage under front shaft bushing is clogged.
    c) Front bushing may be excessively worn.
    d) #76 oil collar may be excessively worn.

As with the other commercial aspects of our business we offer replacement parts for your WB or WC mill at substantial savings versus our competitors. Our hot dipped galvanize replacement wheels for your WB are only $375 + shipping and wheels for your WC are only $425 + shipping. You can expect similar savings on other items as well.

                               This page, as well as the others included on this website, is provided for the educational benefit of our viewers.
Specializing in Collectable, Antique & Vintage Windmills & Parts
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